AquaSolve™ - PVA filament is a cold water soluble 3D printer filament. This feature makes our PVA filament extremely suitable as support material for complex ABS, or PLA prints.
PVA (or PolyVinyl Alcohol) is widely used in traditional industries, such as the textile industry and papermaking industry. PVA is also used in a wide variety of coatings.
The unique characteristic of PVA (totally dissolving in water) makes it a very interesting material for FDM/FFF desktop 3D printing. PVA’s water solubility makes PVA filament particularly suitable as a support material for printing complex ABS, or PLA structures. If your 3D printer has a dual extruder, you can print with ABS/PLA and PVA to build structures which are impossible to make without support material. When your print is done just give it a nice bath in cold/warm water, let the PVA dissolve resulting in a seemingly “impossible” creation made with a FFF/FDM desktop 3D printer. Imagine which complex structures you are now able to print….. Extremely difficult to print models, which were previously only printable with very expensive SLS printers, become available to FFF/FDM 3D printers by making use of a soluble support material like PVA! Think about mechanical applications – such as ball bearings, ball and socket joints, and caged gear mechanisms – which are now available for printing with FFF/FDM 3D printers. Also think about applications, such as being able to make water soluble moulds.
Our AquaSolve™ - PVA filament is a colourless and odourless high quality filament and extrudes around 180°C to 205°C and is suitable with all RepRap-technology based desktop 3D printers, such as MakerBot, Ultimaker, RepRap (Mendel, Huxley, Prusa), UP!, Solidoodle, Leapfrog, and many more….!
AquaSolve™ - PVA printed parts dissolve completely in cold water. However, warm water will speed up the dissolving process. The fastest results can be obtained by dissolving our PVA in continuously heated bath of water.
Our AquaSolve™ does not contain any hazardous, or chemical substances. In fact, all our AquaSolve™ filaments are RoHS certified and REACH compliant.
AquaSolve™ - PVA filament is a compound of PolyVinyl Alcohol (>75%), Aliphatic Polyol (<20%) and Calcium Distearate (<5%) , which comes in 1.75mm and 2.85mm diameter and is conveniently wrapped on a spool containing ±300 grams of filament. Our spool-wrapped PVA filament is packaged in vacuum sealed plastic with a bag of silica gel inside.
|Filament Net Weight:
||± 0.3 Kg ± 2%
|Spool Size (D x h):
||200 mm x 55 mm
|Spool Hub Diameter:
Storage of PVA filament
As PVA is extremely susceptible to water, it is of the uttermost importance that you store AquaSolve™ - PVA filament in the best possible way. This would mean that you need to store your PVA filament in indoors at room temperature and off course in dry condition (e.g. in zip lock bag, or closed container with silica inside).
Recommendations for printing with PVA filament
You can use the same print bed temperature as you are using when printing with PLA, or ABS. AquaSolve™ - PVA sticks well to a non-heated print bed, as well as to a heated print bed. This makes our PVA an ideal support material for printing in combination with either ABS, or PLA (or other materials). You can use the print bed temperature settings as you are used to when printing with ABS, or PLA.
Please do keep in mind that the recommendations given with respect to extrusion/print temperatures and heat bed temperatures are general guidelines. Every desktop 3D printer requires slightly different settings for optimal printing results, so you might need to tweak around with your settings a bit in order to obtain the best possible results.
As PVA filament is a relatively new 3D printer filament we would like to receive as many feedback as possible with respect to user experience and optimal printer settings for as many desktop 3D printers as possible. Therefore we would like to ask you to tweak around with your printer settings and please do share your experiences with our fellow 3D printing enthusiast in the ‘REVIEWS’ tab of this page. We will be very grateful for your input!
|Filament Net Weight:
||± 0.3 Kg
||PolyVinyl Alcohol (>75%), Aliphatic Polyol (<20%) and Calcium Distearate (<5%)
||± 0.10 mm
|Print Temperature Guideline:
||180 - 205°C
|Glass Transition Temperature:
|Ovalidity Tolerance (max):
|Print Speed Guideline:
European Customer review;
I've been doing a great deal of testing. PVA prints aren't a walk in the park, but i got finally made it possible. I see that people who has managed to print in PVA doesn't want to share too much information about it. For me a good future cooperation is important, so here it goes: I had to do the following:
1. Measure out needed amount of filament from the roll (i used Mankati UM/Cura to do this). Cut the needed amount (I also added 20 cm extra plus bowden tube length since i have an pushing extruder motor setup) and reseal the roll in an airtight bag with silica pouches. I used a food vacuum sealer for his purpose.
2. Set an oven to 70 degrees celsius and put the filament into the oven for 6 hours. (I used an digital cooking thermometer to set the exact temperature).
3. During the filament de-hydration period I prepared my print files (print speed 5 mm/s, 125% feed rate and your recommended temp setting).
4. Used blue tape like you recommended.
5. Re-levelled the bed thoroughly using a folded piece from a standard thickness A4 paper. Business card thickness just got a little bit to thick, which would normally work very well with other filaments.
1. Preheat and prepare the printer.
2. Install the filament on the 3D printer, straight from the oven.
3. Start the print, and here comes the tricky part: When the extruder is setting the first layer i use a narrow blunt tip to secure the filament onto the tape. This is especially important when the extruder turns and changes direction. The next layers will go more smoothly (you won't need to use the tip eny more). If doing dual extrusion prints, by any means DO NOT use a prime & wipe tower.
4. Here comes what's even more interesting. When i reached about 0.5 - 1 cm of print had to increase the flowrate to 160% and somewhere around 3-5 cm had to set the feed rate to 190%.
First I found out that the prints had to be done REALLY slow. For me 5 mm/s had to be maximum.
Maybe this isn't all that new for you, but maybe some things can be of use. I also found out that as long as the filament is "brittle" it means that it hasn't absorbed too much water from the air. When it starts to act more like ABS, then it needs to be baked in the oven (even longer than 6 hours).